Kirk's Dream - Pittsburgh of the West

Peter Kirk was born in 1840 in England, where his family owned a steel foundry and mills. The youngest of three sons, Kirk first visited the Unites States in 1886 with the ironworks' chief engineer, John Kellett, looking for the ideal site to construct his own mill. Visiting Seattle, Kirk met a group of local businessmen who encouraged him to explore the opportunities that the East Side offered, where timber, iron ore, coking coal and limestone could all be found nearby. Kirk returned home, fired with enthusiasm to build a steel mill on the shores of Lake Washington and to establish a model community that would become the Pittsburgh of the West. Breaking with family tradition, Peter Kirk said his fairwells and left England for the United States.



 

 

  Click on the History Plaques to read more on Kirkland
Peter Kirk had several American business partners, including Leigh Hunt, owner-publisher of The Seattle Post-Intelligencer. In 1888, the Moss Bay Iron and Steel Company was incorporated - named in honor of the Kirk mills in England - to plan, design and construct an immense mill to roll steel railroad rails for market in Asia. The Kirkland and Land Improvement Company was also incorporated, and platted a town site intending to build foremen and workers' homes, a church, library, offices and shops. Their objective was to build on the ideas of England industrial reformers to create model towns and programs that would ensure both worker welfaire and productivity.

In 1892 and early 1893, Seattle's daily newspapers ran excited stories about Kirk's great industrial venture, that would "transform the country east of Lake Washington". But Kirk's venture was faced with a series of setbacks - the coal and ore did not prove to be of high enough quality for his purposes, transportation was not as quick or easy as expected, and the Crash of 1893 wiped out his financial backers, bleeding all the investment cash from the project. Kirk's mill closed without opening, and no steel was ever produced there. For years, the industrial ruin stood on Rose Hill, mute testimony to a road not taken.

Kirk was personally blamed by many for the failure of the mill. Although he continued to invest in the community the weight of the failure and the eventual death of his daughter Marie led him to leave Kirkland and retire to San Juan Island. In 1910, the Kirkland Land and Improvement Company sold all remaining unsold land in the town site to Seattle realtors Burke and Farrar, who opportunistically marketed Kirkland as an agricultural, residential, retirement, and recreational community.

Back to the Beginning:

Harry French, who arrived in 1872 at Pleasant Bay (now Yarrow Bay), built a cabin of shakes and logs across from what is now Bay Shore Apartments, next to Marsh Park. Two years later he moved to his father’s property further south (near present-day 63rd Street) and built a nine room home where he lived until he died in 1937. He gave his cabin to the community to use as a schoolhouse in 1874.

Prior to the construction of the Lake Washington Ship Canal and lowering of the lake, the shoreline was nine feet higher than it is today and the water’s edge was located in the middle of today’s Lake Washington Boulevard.



Kirkland Beginnings:
Houghton Post Office opens on June 20, 1881.
 

Houghton Post Office is established on June 20, 1881. James Curtis is the first postmaster. The post office is located seven miles northwest of Seattle within the future city limits of Kirkland on the east shore of Lake Washington along the Northern Pacific Railroad line.

The post office did not operate from December 15, 1905 till January 22, 1906. On April 15, 1961, it became a branch of the Kirkland Post Office. The branch closed sometime during 1962-1963.



Kirkland Beginnings:
Kirkland Post Office opens on January 31, 1889.

 The opening of a post office is an important marker of the beginning of a community. On January 31, 1889, the Kirkland Post Office is established. John J. Thompkins is the first postmaster. Kirkland is located on the Eastside (of Lake Washington) just south of Juanita Bay.
Juanita Beach Park

Juanita Beach Park, located along Juanita Bay in Kirkland, has been a popular summer destination for most of a century. Originally settled by Dorr and Eliza Forbes, the park blossomed as a resort in the 1920s under the guidance of their son Leslie and his wife Alicia. In 1956, they sold the park to King County. It remained a county park until 2002, when ownership was transferred to the City of Kirkland.
Dorr and Eliza Forbes

The Juanita Beach Park property was homesteaded in 1876 by Dorr and Eliza Forbes, who planned their move west soon after getting married in Iowa in 1874. After traveling by train with their newborn son Ray to San Francisco, they headed north and briefly lived in a log cabin near Hillsborough, Oregon, where they had a second son, Leon. From there, they continued on to Puget Sound.

Once in Seattle, Dorr scouted around and eventually decided to move his family to a small bay on northeast Lake Washington. They hauled all their belongings onto a boat at McGilvra Landing (later Madison Park) and traveled from there to their new home, where they would spend the rest of their lives.

The hills near the bay were heavily forested, and Dorr set to work clearing his land and building a shingle mill. At first, their closest neighbor, Martin Hubbard, lived a mile away and delivered the mail. As more settlers moved nearby, the community chose the name Hubbard, but later changed it to Juanita. Pioneer Life

Before others moved to the area, the Forbes family had the bay to themselves. Once, when Dorr and the boys were out logging, Eliza was surprised when a group of Indian women opened her front door and walked in. Afraid at first, Eliza soon realized they were cold and hungry. She fed them and had them stand next to the fire. Afterwards, they left peacefully.

In an attempt to upgrade his sawmill, Dorr added a kiln, but the night after it was installed it burned the mill down. Then he attempted to grow cranberries and took up a preemptive claim on Forbes Lake (now Lake Kirkland) a few miles southeast of Juanita. Unfortunately, beavers kept eating his berries, and he gave that up too. But Dorr was a jack-of-all-trades, and found work at other mills and on other farms.

Eliza gave birth to two more sons -- Allen and Leslie -- and also became the first female Justice of the Peace in King County, and possibly in Washington state. She began this job in 1887, when Washington was still a territory, but had to relinquish her duties in 1889 when it became a state. At that time, women still didn’t have the right to vote.

Eliza, a staunch Republican, remained active in politics, but mostly lived out her life as an archetypical pioneer housewife. Even into her 90s she would fish in the nearby stream, pick nettles and dandelions for salads, and sit on the porch shooting robins in the cherry trees. Robin breast, dressed and cooked correctly, was a delicacy.


Kirkland waterfront, circa 1909
Courtesy of Eastside Heritage Center

 
 

 Kirkland business section, circa 1910's


 

Juanita Beach Park, 1925



Alicia, Dorris, Joyce, and Leslie Forbes, 1927

Bath house Juanita Beach, 1930's

Playground at Shady Beach, Juanita, 1933

 
 
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